Gone Floatabout

Sailing, Photography, Wilderness

Glaciers, bears, and crossing the Gulf of Alaska: Kodiak to Ketchikan, July 2016

7 Comments

Sunset on Kodiak IslandWe wrote our last post from Kodiak, a wonderful town where we met a lot of very friendly people. As well as completing necessary chores like laundry, internet, fuel, and groceries, we had fun hiking the hill behind town. We really fell in love with the island of Kodiak, though, when we left town to sail to a deserted bay. Deserted, that is, except for humpback whales, sea otters with babies, and hundreds of puffins and auklets!

Sea otter with baby

Sea otter with baby! Kodiak Island

With favorable weather for the 36-hour crossing to the Kenai Fjords, however, we set out next morning.

Sailing out of Kodiak

Beautiful sailing out of Kodiak

Again we were surrounded by wildlife – orcas right close to Celeste, a huge pod of humpbacks feeding, and another humpback breaching! An incredible sight!

Breaching Humpback Whale

Humpback whale breaching

Orcas off Kodiak

Orcas right off Celeste’s bow!

The passage was calm and uneventful and by evening the following day we were anchored in a stunning cove surrounded by very Alpine-looking mountains. It reminded us both of the higher elevations of the Swiss Alps, but with the ocean right there instead of meadows. Being a fjord, the anchorage was very deep – at 140 feet, the deepest we’ve anchored so far.Alpine-looking cove, Kenai

One of the highlights of the voyage came the next morning when we sailed up to the very head of the fjord to nose up to a huge tidewater glacier. To be so close to the wall of ice, and to hear it rumbling and watch it calving into the ocean was truly awesome, in the original sense of the word! There are many things it’s been a great privilege to see from Celeste’s deck on this Arctic endeavor – polar pack ice, grazing caribou, and fishing brown bears among them – but this glacier is high on the list. We finally tore ourselves away around 8pm to beat back down the fjord and out into the Gulf of Alaska.Celeste in Kenai Fjords

We made it across the Gulf to the islands of Southeast Alaska just in time to beat the low pressure systems that have formed pretty much continuously since then. Westerly winds favored us for the whole passage, meaning Celeste could run downwind and that the crossing was quite fast – 470 miles in 4 days.

2016 Alaska_Kodiak to Ketchikan

Celeste’s route from Kodiak to Kenai Fjords and across the Gulf of Alaska to the Inside Passage

2016 Alaska_Dutch Harbor to Ketchikan

Celeste’s 2016 route through Alaska, zoomed out 🙂

A big southerly swell meeting our westerly wind chop made the boat’s motion uncomfortable, so that we were both pleased when we sighted Baranof Island and the entrance to Peril Strait that would lead us into the protected channels of the Inside Passage.

Entering Peril Strait, Southeast Alaska

Peril Strait, one of the entrances to the inside channels of Southeast Alaska

The strong tidal currents that come through these channels can still make the sailing challenging, but at least when we fight headwinds in here we’re only fighting 3-4 foot waves and not the 10-12 foot waves outside. Since arriving on July 18th, we beat south against fairly strong southerly winds to some beautiful secluded anchorages before reaching the little town of Petersburg. In one bay, we once again (last time was in 2014) ran into old friends – people we’d met in New Zealand during our global circumnavigation who now run a sailboat flotilla up the Inside Passage each year. And to make the world even smaller, one of the boats on this year’s flotilla turned out to be people we’d met on the same voyage, in Fiji in 2008!Celeste in a deserted cove

Fortunately the strong southerlies died down once we reached Petersburg and we’ve encountered mostly calms for the last few days as we’ve progressed south through the narrow channels that wind among the steep, wooded mountains of this part of Alaska. We’ve taken a different route than we sailed on our way north in 2014, mainly in order to visit one incredible spot where black bears and the occasional brown bear congregate to fish for salmon. Along with the volcanic wilderness of the Alaska Peninsula and the huge glacier in the Kenai Fjords, watching the bears was surely one the best moments of this year’s voyage.

-My fishing spot!- Black bear altercation

“My fishing spot!” Black bear altercation at the salmon run

Seth hiking in bear country

Hiking in bear country, Southeast Alaska

Now we’re in the rather busy town of Ketchikan, almost at the border, and we’ll jump off for Canada in the next couple of days! Once more, we’ll be away from internet for a while but will respond to comments when we can! Thanks so much for reading 🙂

Author: Ellen

Circumnavigator, Arctic voyager, writer/photographer

7 thoughts on “Glaciers, bears, and crossing the Gulf of Alaska: Kodiak to Ketchikan, July 2016

  1. Pingback: Inside Channels to Open Ocean: Ketchikan, Alaska to Juan de Fuca Strait, Washington, August 2016 | Gone Floatabout

  2. It is hard to keep up with your wonderful variety of scenery,, It just goes on & on I love it. What a great yacht you have , that speedy run must have given you a big thrill, keep it up mate,cheers

  3. Thank you so much for sharing your stories! Love your photos, Celeste, your adventure…safe travels to an amazing couple!

  4. Fantastic! I have been to Petersberg! Can’t wait to get back to Alaska one day. Stunning place and your photos are brilliant 🙂

Share your thoughts

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s